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pastiche:

-noun

1. a literary, musical, or artistic piece consisting wholly or chiefly of motifs or techniques borrowed from one or more sources.

2. an incongruous combination of materials, forms, motifs, etc., taken from different sources; hodgepodge.

3. my blog.

Death of a Jackfruit

Another month gone, and I'm starting to feel like a local. Except for the moments when I realize we actually have no idea what we're doing. Case in point: last Thursday, a few of us decided to harvest the jackfruit growing on the tree in the backyard. For those who don't know, a jackfruit most closely resembles a Dr. Seuss invention: lumpy, spiny, lime green, and incredibly large. As in, the one we chopped down was over 2 feet long and weighed over 10 kilos. That's 20 pounds of fruit, or rather, a mass of fleshiness and giant seeds with some select pod-lings of fruit inside. A grand addition to dinner, or at least it would have been, had it been at all ripe. 

To obtain it, we had to not only climb the tree, chop it down, avoid the rubber cement-esque white excretion gushing from the stem, and carry it to the bathtub, but then also to hack it open with the largest knife available (a machete would have been useful), carefully coating our hands with oil and wearing plastic bags to prevent its sticky sap, which happens to be a skin irritant, from getting all over our hands (and when I say our, I mostly mean Kurt's Aradhana's, and Rob's--I mostly functioned as the camera crew). 
Piglet and Norbert, our two casualties.
A tragic way to go.
In the end, though, our arduous efforts were utterly wasted. It's unripe fruit had a sticky, woody texture and tasted like bland frustration. It was a good reminder that white people, in particular young adult males with underdeveloped pre-frontal cortices, are apt to do stupid things in foreign countries, and that good-sounding ideas often end in unfortunate failures. Although they evidently lend themselves to great stories. And if I'm not in Africa to collect some good stories, what am I here for? This certainly won't be the last such instance.


The face of true sorrow.
All told, however, I'm learning to make my way around. I've loved getting into the everyday rhythm of the city, and I'm becoming quite proficient at navigating the taxi routes and even bargaining at Nakawa market (essentially the Wal-Mart of Uganda, only open-air and completely fabulous). I've even become a bit of a guide for the other students who arrived a week or so ago. We're all crammed into a new complex in Kololo, a ritzy part of Kampala that feels a bit strange without all the dust, street stalls, and taxis on every corner. But, I'm adjusting, and enjoying new opportunities for exploration. One new discovery was Obama Chapati and Take-Away, a restaurant that happens to be right next door to Gaddafi Chapati and Take-Away. The wonderful ironies of this place never cease to amaze me.
At the lovely Nakawa market.

Read More 1 Comment | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

Lessons in Patience


If there’s one thing you need to live in Africa, it’s patience. I've come to this conclusion over the past two weeks here in Kampala and a few outlying parts of the country, with many experiences contributing to my realization that the whole world doesn’t conform to the mile-a-minute pace of American society. Despite my last post, in which I described Kampala as (truthfully) one of the busiest cities I've ever been in, I still feel that the overall speed of life is, in fact, slower. This is true for several reasons: one is that modern technology here, while up and coming, just can’t compete byte-for-byte with the Western stuff. Internet here is slow—streaming YouTube videos or Pandora is wishful thinking—and texting is still in its basic 9 key, number-to-letter format.  I’ve learned how to wait, with 2 hours worth of practice, while a nice older lady makes 1000 photocopies on a decades-old machine in a cupboard-under-the-stairs in the local shopping center. I learned how to wait again in a little copy shop in the rural district of Pallisa while making 2000 more. I have to wait for my hair to dry, my clothes to dry, my cooking water to heat in beat-up aluminum pots on a slightly sketchy stove I’m quite fortunate to have. I’ve waited to get through “the jam” of rush-hour Kampala traffic, and waited about every other night for the power to come back on. Even my workload here requires patience—while I’ve got lots to do, it generally comes in spurts, with long stretches of unfilled time that mean a lot of hanging around our little complex. Fittingly, I’ve read through quite a bit of Walden.

I can only imagine the patience the people here must cultivate, especially in the villages and small towns. With no TV (our bootlegged cable at least has thrice-dubbed telenovelas), readily accessible internet, or even books, those living in rural areas must rely on social interaction and observation for entertainment. Driving past the villages, I’ve seen them sitting outside their huts and shops, talking together while they cook and wash, or watching the world (and the big van of muzungus) pass by. But perhaps they’re just good at enjoying life as it comes. Maybe another reason the pace of life is slower is because people choose to have it that way. I hope I can learn to do more of the same. In the meantime, I feel I’m going to get really skilled in patience.

By the way, here's some photos of our drive to the very slow-moving Pallisa:
A misty Uganda sunrise

Sugarcane plantation

Yep, that's a cow. Roaming around, without a care.

Just like in the movies. But cooler.


Read More 4 comments | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

Hey! I'm in Uganda!

Hello, all my friends and family! As most of you know, I’m in Uganda for the summer doing a mentored research study abroad with the BYU Political Science Dept. I’m living in Kampala, the capital city—and if there is one word to describe Kampala, it is busy. The traffic is insane—there are packed taxis/minibuses, lots of cars, and dozens of boda bodas (motorcycle/dirtbike type taxis) zipping in and out of every “lane” (and I use that really loosely—even the side of the street you drive on is flexible). There are also people everywhere, with stalls and shops lining all the streets and hawkers filling in the rest. Everything is tinted red from the dirt, offset with lovely green trees.

After arriving Wednesday morning, I’ve had some crazy experiences, including:

-Riding in a crammed taxi all over town, and getting ripped off because we’re muzungu (white people)
-Nearly having our windshield broken by golf-ball sized hail during a sudden afternoon thunderstorm
-Buying groceries, including Arabic crackers, mango nectar, and whole chickens
-Sleeping with a bednet for the first time
-Calling Ugandan NGOs and trying to understand what they are saying and have them understand what I am saying--a difficult thing, let me tell you.
-Buying fruits and vegetables from a market, and getting ripped off, again, because I'm a muzungu. My bargaining skills will improve, I hope.

Ok, some less crazy than others. But everything seems pretty insane being here. Although, there are surprisingly normal aspects to life in Kampala—people are just people, living their lives. It’s definitely going to be a challenge here, but one I’m sure I will love.

Until later, mweraba!

(Goodbye in Luganda, the local language)

Also, here are some pictures of the house where I live:


Our cheery apartment.

The Command Center

Bedroom, complete with bednets

Tiny, tiny kitchen
View from the compound



 

Our laundry drying in the compound courtyard
Mango tree in the yard, whaaat?

Lovely foliage

Banana tree in the yard



Read More 3 comments | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

Reconsiderations of our global predicament.

I recently came upon the following quote, which I really truly love, and which quite perfectly sums up my philosophy about development that I've been recently, well, developing:


     "If you move through the world only with your intellect, then you walk on only one leg. 
     If you move through the world only with your compassion, then you walk  on only one leg. 
     But if you move through the world with both intellect and compassion, then you have wisdom." 
                -Maha Ghosandanda



     I found this eloquent and simple gem in a book called The Blue Sweater, which I spied on a Barnes and Noble table, and upon getting a vague sense from the back cover that it talked about economics and development, two of my prime favorite subjects, decided to pick it up from the local library (one of prime favorite places, as it happens. And I just love that phrase--"local library"--it brings back fond Reading Rainbow memories. Ah Lavarr.) 
     In any case, it's turned out to be a highly interesting and inspiring book. It was written as a memoir by Jacqueline Novogratz, who unbeknownst to moi at the time, is the lovely lady who founded Acumen Fund, an organization for which I actually applied to do an on-campus internship (among other social enterprise groups-- it didn't work out, but who knows? Maybe next time.) It's a great account of her early efforts in humanitarian work, the beginnings of Acumen Fund and most centrally, the development of the idea of "patient capital," the middle ground between traditional, unaccountable notions of charity and the unsentimental yet highly effective rules of traditional business. It also contains a wrenching account of her personal experience in Rwanda, both pre- and post-genocide, and the lessons to be learned there. 
     The quote above, from Maha Ghosandanda, comes from Novogratz's interview with the Buddhist monk and Cambodian peace activist. It really helped me distill how I feel about development, and how I believe I need to approach life in general. These two things--intellect, and compassion--are both so, so important to me. But you cannot rely just on facts, analysis, numbers. But you can't indulge in pure sentimentality and idealism and give and give money and stuff, without giving those whom you are trying to help a chance and an expectation to prove themselves. That's what I think Martin Burt (another amazing individual, and speaker at the Hunger Banquet last year) meant when he said that if you give a man who is capable of providing for himself free stuff, like blankets, you may actually be taking away his dignity. You have to respect people and hold them, and aid groups, accountable and show trust in them to succeed.
     I highly recommend The Blue Sweater to anyone looking to delve deeper into the changing world of international development, to anyone who won't balk at a "call to action that challenges us to grant dignity to the poor and to rethink our engagement with the world." It certainly has given me a lot to think on.
Read More 2 comments | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

music with a message.

So during our recent SID retreat (which was fabulous), a couple friends introduced me to this man:


--K'naan--

who may in fact be the best thing i've found in a long time.

think: Somali-born Rapper, with amazing voice, rhymes, beats.
think: Activist, drawing from his own incredible hardships and experiences, singing for global awareness of war, poverty, the real issues in world politics, appreciation of music, poetry, culture, love, life.
think: collaborative Genius, working with metallica's guitarist, Maroon 5's adam levine, mixer J. Period, laying down an awesome (and free) mix tape in tribute to three of music's greatest Messengers, Bob Marley, Bob Dylan (both of whom I have long loved in their own right) and Fela Kuti (who I think will soon become another favorite).
think: the Next Big Thing- his song was chosen for the World Cup 2010 anthem. oh yes.
think: truly inspiring.

listen:



Also, download this and listen to "Don't Think Twice."


I'm pretty much obsessed.

Read More 3 comments | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

Quandary and Crisis.

So... about this time every semester (and by that, I mean when registration is about to open up) I go through a serious existential personal identity life goal reevaluation crisis. I question everything-- my class choices, my major, my summer plans, my study abroad dreams, internship goals, job possibilities, and pretty much what I want to do with my life. Making decisions is so stressful. It makes me really frustrated, because I feel there is a serious dichotomy regarding college: on the one hand, people tell you you need to plan everything out, start setting up internships, prepare for classes and jobs and just decide everything now. The world is competitive, and opportunities will pass you by.
On the other hand, people say you need to relax, you're just starting out, you'll figure it out, don't stress, you'll change your major 5 times anyway. These are the same people who criticize that high schoolers are too pressured at too early of an age to decide their major/their career.
But do you know what? I think it's really unfair to college students to spring such a huge decision on them out of nowhere! We ought to be educated and investigating, shadowing, exploring careers- not just taking some silly aptitude test that tells you you'd rather not work at a desk job and you work well with people. No duh. At the same time, who knows if I would have come to the same conclusions then as I have now or will in the future.
But still, if there's one thing I've learned in college, it's that you don't magically grow up and figure things out when you graduate high school. I also really envy those people who have set career and professional tracks- nursing, elementary education, engineering. Your classes are lined up for you. When you graduate, you know what you want to be, and what kind of a job you'll look for. Oh, the curse of the social sciences. Oh, the curse of the liberal arts. I wish I could be like my sister Emma, who's decided it's her dream to be a dentist. She is literally Hermie from Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer. Except not a femmy elf with a nasally voice. But otherwise.

So basically, I'm trying to decide the following: Do I switch from IR to Econ for my major? Dependent on that, do I take French 102 and/or Econ 382 next semester? (something's gotta give, because as it is, I'm looking at 18 credit hours. And no "fun" classes. Not going to work.) Do I take more calculus? Do I take it this summer? Do I still plan on India study abroad for Fall 2011? Where else can I go? Should I go to Haiti this summer? Will my mom ever let me go to Haiti? Do I go even if she doesn't? Where should I intern? What do I want to do on an internship? What should I do for grad school? How does economics (a cool social science, with cool research...but being an official economist sounds kinda dreary) apply to what I want to do? What do I want to do in a career? Do I have any skills at all? Will I be able to get a job doing what I want? Will I be able to raise a family doing what I want? Is my whole passion for development completely idealistic and futile?

*deep breath*
Om, shanti, shanti.

I'm glad at times like these I have things like the Hare Krishnas (yay for stress-relieving chants) and the Hunger Banquet and SID and awesome people who are out there living the dream. It is possible. I just hope I can figure out how it's possible for me.

Preferably before Fall registration in a few weeks.

Sigh.
Read More 4 comments | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

Hunger Banquet!

The time is fast approaching when the culmination of all my efforts (and many, many other people's efforts far greater than mine) will come to pass:

The BYU Hunger Banquet.

I'm so so so excited. Like, really. So excited. Here's how it works- everyone pays the same amount for a ticket, and then is randomly assigned into different groups representative of the world income levels. So, 10% of people will get a three course, fancy schmancy dinner; 20% will get a hot dog and some chips; and the rest will sit on the floor and share rice and beans. It creates a truly amazing visual of how the world really lives.

There will also be oodles of fabulous entertainment! There will be dancing, and singing, and drumming, plus the awesome Martin Burt, former mayor of Asuncion, Paraguay and current philanthropist running an agricultural vocational school, is coming all the way from Paraguay to speak! So cool.

The best part is that all the money that is raised goes to development organizations and projects all over the world who have applied for grants. We, as members of SID (students for international development, the club that I'm in and that really gives meaning to my life) get to judge and rate and decide which group gets the money. Last year we raised $15,000-- and this year we're shooting for $19,000.

To do so, we need lots of people! So to those few readers who may actually be able to come, Come!! It's Thursday (March 4th) and Saturday (March 6th) at 7pm in the Wilk Ballroom. You can buy tickets, $8 each, at the Info Desk in the Wilk.

I am seriously so excited.
Seriously.
Read More 1 Comment | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post
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PASTICHE

  • About Me
      My name is Maddy. I am an avid fan of life. I am currently pursuing a dual degree in traveling, helping humanity, and chronic underemployment- aka, International Development. I love indie music, classic and offbeat literature, and gelato.
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