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pastiche:

-noun

1. a literary, musical, or artistic piece consisting wholly or chiefly of motifs or techniques borrowed from one or more sources.

2. an incongruous combination of materials, forms, motifs, etc., taken from different sources; hodgepodge.

3. my blog.

Death of a Jackfruit

Another month gone, and I'm starting to feel like a local. Except for the moments when I realize we actually have no idea what we're doing. Case in point: last Thursday, a few of us decided to harvest the jackfruit growing on the tree in the backyard. For those who don't know, a jackfruit most closely resembles a Dr. Seuss invention: lumpy, spiny, lime green, and incredibly large. As in, the one we chopped down was over 2 feet long and weighed over 10 kilos. That's 20 pounds of fruit, or rather, a mass of fleshiness and giant seeds with some select pod-lings of fruit inside. A grand addition to dinner, or at least it would have been, had it been at all ripe. 

To obtain it, we had to not only climb the tree, chop it down, avoid the rubber cement-esque white excretion gushing from the stem, and carry it to the bathtub, but then also to hack it open with the largest knife available (a machete would have been useful), carefully coating our hands with oil and wearing plastic bags to prevent its sticky sap, which happens to be a skin irritant, from getting all over our hands (and when I say our, I mostly mean Kurt's Aradhana's, and Rob's--I mostly functioned as the camera crew). 
Piglet and Norbert, our two casualties.
A tragic way to go.
In the end, though, our arduous efforts were utterly wasted. It's unripe fruit had a sticky, woody texture and tasted like bland frustration. It was a good reminder that white people, in particular young adult males with underdeveloped pre-frontal cortices, are apt to do stupid things in foreign countries, and that good-sounding ideas often end in unfortunate failures. Although they evidently lend themselves to great stories. And if I'm not in Africa to collect some good stories, what am I here for? This certainly won't be the last such instance.


The face of true sorrow.
All told, however, I'm learning to make my way around. I've loved getting into the everyday rhythm of the city, and I'm becoming quite proficient at navigating the taxi routes and even bargaining at Nakawa market (essentially the Wal-Mart of Uganda, only open-air and completely fabulous). I've even become a bit of a guide for the other students who arrived a week or so ago. We're all crammed into a new complex in Kololo, a ritzy part of Kampala that feels a bit strange without all the dust, street stalls, and taxis on every corner. But, I'm adjusting, and enjoying new opportunities for exploration. One new discovery was Obama Chapati and Take-Away, a restaurant that happens to be right next door to Gaddafi Chapati and Take-Away. The wonderful ironies of this place never cease to amaze me.
At the lovely Nakawa market.

Read More 1 Comment | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

Lessons in Patience


If there’s one thing you need to live in Africa, it’s patience. I've come to this conclusion over the past two weeks here in Kampala and a few outlying parts of the country, with many experiences contributing to my realization that the whole world doesn’t conform to the mile-a-minute pace of American society. Despite my last post, in which I described Kampala as (truthfully) one of the busiest cities I've ever been in, I still feel that the overall speed of life is, in fact, slower. This is true for several reasons: one is that modern technology here, while up and coming, just can’t compete byte-for-byte with the Western stuff. Internet here is slow—streaming YouTube videos or Pandora is wishful thinking—and texting is still in its basic 9 key, number-to-letter format.  I’ve learned how to wait, with 2 hours worth of practice, while a nice older lady makes 1000 photocopies on a decades-old machine in a cupboard-under-the-stairs in the local shopping center. I learned how to wait again in a little copy shop in the rural district of Pallisa while making 2000 more. I have to wait for my hair to dry, my clothes to dry, my cooking water to heat in beat-up aluminum pots on a slightly sketchy stove I’m quite fortunate to have. I’ve waited to get through “the jam” of rush-hour Kampala traffic, and waited about every other night for the power to come back on. Even my workload here requires patience—while I’ve got lots to do, it generally comes in spurts, with long stretches of unfilled time that mean a lot of hanging around our little complex. Fittingly, I’ve read through quite a bit of Walden.

I can only imagine the patience the people here must cultivate, especially in the villages and small towns. With no TV (our bootlegged cable at least has thrice-dubbed telenovelas), readily accessible internet, or even books, those living in rural areas must rely on social interaction and observation for entertainment. Driving past the villages, I’ve seen them sitting outside their huts and shops, talking together while they cook and wash, or watching the world (and the big van of muzungus) pass by. But perhaps they’re just good at enjoying life as it comes. Maybe another reason the pace of life is slower is because people choose to have it that way. I hope I can learn to do more of the same. In the meantime, I feel I’m going to get really skilled in patience.

By the way, here's some photos of our drive to the very slow-moving Pallisa:
A misty Uganda sunrise

Sugarcane plantation

Yep, that's a cow. Roaming around, without a care.

Just like in the movies. But cooler.


Read More 4 comments | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post

Hey! I'm in Uganda!

Hello, all my friends and family! As most of you know, I’m in Uganda for the summer doing a mentored research study abroad with the BYU Political Science Dept. I’m living in Kampala, the capital city—and if there is one word to describe Kampala, it is busy. The traffic is insane—there are packed taxis/minibuses, lots of cars, and dozens of boda bodas (motorcycle/dirtbike type taxis) zipping in and out of every “lane” (and I use that really loosely—even the side of the street you drive on is flexible). There are also people everywhere, with stalls and shops lining all the streets and hawkers filling in the rest. Everything is tinted red from the dirt, offset with lovely green trees.

After arriving Wednesday morning, I’ve had some crazy experiences, including:

-Riding in a crammed taxi all over town, and getting ripped off because we’re muzungu (white people)
-Nearly having our windshield broken by golf-ball sized hail during a sudden afternoon thunderstorm
-Buying groceries, including Arabic crackers, mango nectar, and whole chickens
-Sleeping with a bednet for the first time
-Calling Ugandan NGOs and trying to understand what they are saying and have them understand what I am saying--a difficult thing, let me tell you.
-Buying fruits and vegetables from a market, and getting ripped off, again, because I'm a muzungu. My bargaining skills will improve, I hope.

Ok, some less crazy than others. But everything seems pretty insane being here. Although, there are surprisingly normal aspects to life in Kampala—people are just people, living their lives. It’s definitely going to be a challenge here, but one I’m sure I will love.

Until later, mweraba!

(Goodbye in Luganda, the local language)

Also, here are some pictures of the house where I live:


Our cheery apartment.

The Command Center

Bedroom, complete with bednets

Tiny, tiny kitchen
View from the compound



 

Our laundry drying in the compound courtyard
Mango tree in the yard, whaaat?

Lovely foliage

Banana tree in the yard



Read More 3 comments | Posted by Madeleine Gleave edit post
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PASTICHE

  • About Me
      My name is Maddy. I am an avid fan of life. I am currently pursuing a dual degree in traveling, helping humanity, and chronic underemployment- aka, International Development. I love indie music, classic and offbeat literature, and gelato.
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        • Death of a Jackfruit
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        • Lessons in Patience
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        • Hey! I'm in Uganda!
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